Heather's Blog

Mount Kinabalu, Borneo

Malaysia’s highest mountain, a pluton in the clouds

Over two decades ago we backpacked around Malaysia when my daughter Carmen was just a wee lassie. At 31/2 she was still small and light enough to get a lift in a backpack carrier on long walks. But being little meant there were some walks that were just too tricky, too high or too long - or, just simply, not safe. Mount Kinabalu summit in Sabah was one of them. Trekking to the Pinnacles of Gunung Api in Sarawak was another.

20+ years ago…

Our first visit to Mount Kinabalu was in 2005. We hired a car in Kota Kinabalu so were able to drive to our accommodation near the base of Mount Kinabalu at a height of roughly 5,200’. It was basic and from memory the food was limited if you were vegetarian. Our plan was to walk up from the Timpohon Gate to gain better views of the mountain and the progressive changes in the rainforest before heading to Poring Hot Springs then south to Sandakan.

Our biggest concern had been the altitude so we had done some research on taking young children to heights over 6,000’ before leaving the UK. 8,000’ to 10,000’ was regarded as safe if you took into account that this is still a zone where there is the potential for altitude sickness. Safety considerations include limited periods at height, taking the ascent slowly, keeping hydrated and coming back down to a lower altitude to sleep. And with a child who is too young to communicate clearly about how they are feeling, watching out for anything out of the ordinary or signs of distress is extremely important.

On explaining our wishes at Kinabalu Park they allowed us to get a permit for the day. This allowed us to climb to approx. 10.000’. And although they permitted us to go without a guide it was on the very strict understanding we would not attempt to go past Panalaban and the mountain huts at Laban Rata (which are just under 11,000’).

At the time people were still allowed permits to go to the summit and back in one day; this is no longer allowed other than for elite events such as the International Climbathon. And we also had to report in when we got back down (which you still do). I have no idea if such an arrangement can still be made if not planning to go beyond Laban Rata but I certainly did not see any other very young children on either trip.

And so it was that Carmen made her first ascent up the side of Mount Kinabalu, to around 10,000’. We took it slowly and spent a lot of time looking at views, flowers and butterflies. It was hot and humid. We met large numbers of people ascending and descending with their guides like ants, and the porters carried monstrous loads that swamped them – all the gas, food and supplies to feed everyone at the huts. Carmen occasionally walked but was mainly carried on the way up, bobbing around in the carrier and pointing at pitcher plants. On the way down she impressed everyone by managing a large part of the descent on her own, despite some steps being nearly the same height as her!

I felt sad to descend; the journey onto Mount Kinabalu felt unfinished. Having seen the grandeur of the sheer and contorted granite peaks above - formed by a giant pluton that made Mount Kinabalu rise out of the ground like a kinder version of Mount Doom - I felt that longing to see what was above and beyond, to be able to look out from those lofty heights.

Later as we drove away, viewing the mountain again from afar, I promised myself that one day we would come back, when Carmen could do it all on her own two feet. Roll on 20 years.

2025…

In 2025 Carmen had decided she wanted to travel and possibly find work abroad. For a year, or maybe more. Her goal was to start in SE Asia, undertake her Conservation Eco Divemaster internship in Thailand and then see where things took her.

And so we hatched a plan. If I was to come out and see her why not meet in Malaysia? More specifically, why not go back to Borneo and accomplish two of the dreams I had been holding for 20 years. To summit Mount Kinabalu and to trek to the Mulu Pinnacles. After all, Carmen could now do them on her own two feet. We settled on meeting in April 2026, a time when the weather offered a good chance of success without being bang in the middle of the high season.

But getting to Malaysia got complicated; little did we know my flights would be cancelled with the rising crisis in the Middle East and that fuel prices would rocket. But being able to see Carmen was something I was determined to do. And we had already booked our climbs. As prices soared getting new flight tickets was like playing roulette and refunds never come back when you need them! But at least I was just trying to get from a to b, it was awful to think of so many in conflict.

Meeting in Kuala Lumpur was a relief. Seeing Carmen come through the arrival gate under a barrage of dive baggage with her big grin was fantastic– now a qualified Divemaster and somewhat more travelled. We spent a couple of days catching up with family and enjoying the sights, food and sounds of KL before heading to Kota Kinabalu. I suddenly wondered if going from 100s of dives to climbing a mountain of 13,435’ would be an issue.

For our time in Borneo, where we spent most of this trip, I had contacted various companies and National Parks to arrange guides and permits. For Mount Kinabalu we had also decided to do the Low’s Peak Circuit Via Ferrata. This did not exist when we were last there, but I had spotted it when researching; for us it was a no-brainer. There is also a four-peak trip, but I found out about that later!

Trying to book the Via Ferrata proved tricky. Although run by Mountain Torq it was difficult to contact them. Eventually I found a number to WhatsApp but rather than being able to book direct I was pointed in the direction of one of their preferred agencies. I would recommend doing your research as prices vary and it is not cheap! The easiest option is to look for a deal that includes everything you need: accommodation, meals, guide,permit, etc. You can check if an agency is legitimate with the Ministry of Tourism, Arts and Culture - MOTAC – as companies can come and go.  We opted for a 3D2N stay in case the weather was inclement. This gave us a spare day; you are not allowed to do the Via Ferrata in bad weather and having travelled so far, we wanted to give it the best chance.

The Climb…

Day 1

To make things easier I had arranged with the agent in Kota Kinabalu (whom I had booked the climb with from the UK) for us to get picked up from our hostel. I thought it would be less stressful than getting the bus, but the driver was an hour late. As we waited on the pavement outside in the growing heat I was beginning to wonder if I had been diddled, that nobody would come and we would have spent a fortune on a climb that wasn’t going to happen. Worse – I certainly hadn’t put funds aside to be able to pay twice! But the driver did turn up and was very apologetic. However, the knock-on effect was that our guide was now waiting at the Park and stressing about our somewhat late arrival and start time. This would not have mattered if we weren’t doing the Via Ferrata – but you have to be at the Mountain Torq hut (Pendant Hut) by a set time for the briefing or you are not allowed to do it!

Our young guide, Terrence, was keen to go and set off at what felt quite a pace. It wasn’t really that fast, but it was already hot.

Coming from home where it had been snowing to 30C had knocked it out of me and even at 6,000’ it was still over 25C. It was apparently hotter and drier than usual. And whatever I had eaten the day before was not agreeing with me. With an iffy start I stuck to my own pace, knowing if I tried to go any faster, I would make myself feel worse. I think Terrence was worried about time but once he realised we just keep plodding without extended stops he settled into an easier rhythm. I noted his rucksack was smaller than ours; as usual I had had my ML head on so had plenty of spare warm clothes for the summit, snacks and spare dehydrated meals (in case the veggie options were non-existent), and a good FA kit.

Memories of the route came back, and Terrence chatted about some of the wild species that could be used in medicine, the pitcher plants and flowers. He had been brought up locally and his father had also worked in the Park.

Cloud came and went, settling the temperature to something more bearable. Occasionally we had glimpses of the Mountain's granite peaks, beckoning us on, although they didn’t seem to get any closer.

At one point our route changed. Terrence informed us this was one of the areas affected by the tragic earthquake that had sadly killed 18 people on the mountain in 2015. An unexpected disaster that affected young and old;climbers, school children, teachers, guides and the families they left behind.

After five hours we reached Panalaban and the huts, some 4,670' above the gate at the start of the walk. As it turned out we had plenty of time to spare. We were shown where we would have our meals at night (at Laban Rata) then went up to Pendant Hut. This is where those undertaking the Via Ferrata stay. To get there involved another series of steep steps, and our dorm was up a ladder – suddenly we both noticed the altitude. But the views from the small hut were fabulous.

The briefing that afternoon gave you enough information as to what to expect including using the continuous-belay single carabiner system. Dinner was early and had plenty of food for vegetarians (we had been told this might not be the case but no issues at all). We were also lucky in that we had a dorm to ourselves; we had a peaceful and cosy night. The hut provides thick sleeping bags and liners which were plenty warm enough despite the cold night air.

Day 2

Early starts usually mean I don’t sleep well the night before yet we both managed and it was nice and quiet. But getting up at 1.30am did mean downing breakfast was not quite so easy. After a half-hearted attempt at a snack Terrence came to meet us and we set off into the cold night air just before 2.30am. We didn’t say much and with little to see other than steps and more steps we plodded up in our own little worlds of thought.

On reaching the first cut-off point at Sayat-Sayat we paused to use the facilities but no longer. With the cold it was easier to keep going and we passed those who had started ahead of us. Once onto the granite slabs above the tree line that lead onto the summit plateau we started to really enjoy the walk, there is something much more grounding about being on bare rock rather than heaving yourself up man made steps, of which there had been many. We could see the bright white line of the rope and occasional patches of frost glinting under our torch light; effectively the rope keeps people on track, though it’s not much good for holding on to as at ground level.

The final push to the summit was up some steep boulders. Normally the scramble to a summit is my favourite bit but suddenly I felt exhausted and struggled to get my energy together. The altitude was probably getting to me. We had been at sea level the day before and were now at over 4000m. Surprisingly Carmen didn’t feel too bad – despite having spent months diving. I could see a few torches beginning to catch up and mustered my strength. We just managed to reach the summit before anyone else. It was 5.00am. Obligatory photos taken we scrambled back down to shelter amongst the boulders; there was a biting cold wind.

We had planned to stay on the summit until dawn, but we soon realised it was just too chilly. Terrence was cold too, so we decided to meander around the plateau a bit and take photos as the reds and gold of dawn glazed the horizon. Carmen had bought M&S Percy Pigs in KL and bizarrely we each had one. In the distance we could see a lightning storm in clouds below us. Along line of head torches snaked up the mountain. Above the queue to the tiny summit for photographs reminded me of Snowdon.

As the sun rose, we started to descend. We had to be down at the Via Ferrata start point by 6.30am. En route we took photos and enjoyed the reflections of the majestic St John’s Peak – a mini half dome - in a small tarn that was untouched by the wind. Underneath our feet the granite slabs made for easy walking.

Terrence bid us farewell at the Via Ferrata. Here another guide was to take us on, and we would see Terrence again for our final descent the next day. We were soon kitted out. There were only five of us and three guides, so we were able to spread out into our own mini groups. We went second with another couple following on. Soon we were all nicely spread out and it felt like we had the mountain to ourselves.

The sun’s rays were welcome when they finally reached us and the granite surface offered incredibly good grip, making for a relaxing descent. Other than our occasional chatter or a giggle the only noise was the clunk, clank of the carabiner as we passed it over the steel anchors and alongt he cable. The rock face was certainly steep, but at no time did I feel particularly exposed although the odd hop across from one metal plate to another was slightly disconcerting in a couple of places, but only because of the distance for short legs! As Carmen climbs she found it a doddle.

The Via Ferrata drops you down over 1000’ of granite and, on a clear day like we had, the views are stunning. There are a couple of narrow bridges - one a suspension the other wire, which give you a very direct view down. We could have dawdled all day but obviously didn’t! It only took a couple of hours to reach the base of the main section, so we enjoyed resting at the start of the trees for a while, enjoying the shade as the sun was very quickly warming things up.

We then meandered for a while before reaching the base of the easier ‘Walk the Torq’ Via Ferrata. This we now had to walk back up. It proved harder than we thought, it was so hot back out of the shade and we were more tired than we realised with the altitude playing its part. I found myself trudging and was quite glad when this bit was over! The final push was up a little ladder which brought you back out not far from our original ascent path. Removing our harnesses we stopped for a while to enjoy the views and look back up at the rock face we had descended.

Some distance to the right of where we had descended, I had noticed another via ferrata heading steeply upwards (initially I had looked at it intrepidation hoping we didn’t have to go back up ‘that’). I asked the guide about it – he said it was used for emergencies; I haven’t been able to find out anything further about it. He also pointed out one of the main climbing routes that went directly up the granite face – it reminded me of a steeper version of the Dubh slabs of the Cuillin although the granite was fairer in its complexion than the rough gabbro of Skye.

Returning to Pendant Hut meant we could relax. It was only around 10.00am. As I had booked an extra day in case the weather had been inclement, we didn’t have to do anything. We couldn’t shower either as the unseasonably dry weather meant there was a water shortage. Not that it mattered. Like hobbits we had a second breakfast, drank tea and enjoyed the views. The other couple who had done the Via Ferrata joined us some time later but were heading back down. Eventually we decided a rest was probably a good idea, having been up since 1.30.

Despite the fact we had now accomplished what we had come for we were glad of the extra day – it meant we could relax and enjoy the view without the mad rush to get back down and picked up all on the same day. Later the cards came out and various battles ensued. Having had a late breakfast the thought of lunch did not appeal but we headed down to Laban Rata anyway. We chatted to those who had come up that day, travellers from all over the world. I listened to the animated banter - where have you been/been there/where to next – and suddenly felt quite old. Tomorrow they would be going up to the summit and part of me wanted to go again but this time on the four peaks adventure I had only recently learnt about. Wherever you go, there is always more.

Those staying at Laban Rata do not undertake the Via Ferrata so are usually given a bit more leeway with their morning start time, but not much, it seemed a 2.30-3.00am was the norm. We played cards and Carmen had a beer. I was feeling slightly squiffy so did not.

That evening I struggled to eat; I wasn’t sure if it was the problem I had had when we had set off or altitude, but getting dinner down wasn’t easy. I was glad of my bed.

Day 3

We knew our guide Terrence wanted to be off by 8.30am so we were up, packed and ready bright and early. It was weird having a guide. When it is something you do yourself as a living it can feel slightly intrusive and a bit ‘overkill’. But being able to support the local economy and those who live there is important and I certainly didn’t begrudge the situation. And there is no doubt about it, the guides and porters were SUPER fit. It is harder to get such work in the UK as there is no mountain where you have to employ a guide. But guides can impart a lot of local knowledge, and it is quite sad when people ‘poo-poo’ the need.

Breakfast had another surprise in store. It was also my birthday (another reason I hadn’t wanted to rush off the mountain). The staff obviously do this every so often, but it was unexpected, appreciated and hilarious. Sitting there supping our tea and eating ‘Smash ‘n beans’ we heard voices approaching singing ‘Happy Birthday’. The staff then appeared with a jelly, candles alit. Now, as a non-meat eater, I don’t normally eat jelly, so this was quite odd. As it wobbled and they set it down I blew. Expectantly they looked on. I served up a little each and offered it to the staff. Another girl came in who had opted out of the Via Ferrata; I offered her some too. Between us we made quite a hole, but I couldn’t work out if it was a veggie jelly or not. We left the rest to the hungry horde who would be coming back down later. It was a lovely gesture, and they gave me a card which I have kept.

Terrence arrived and had jelly thrust at him too. We had written a postcard for mum so we could send it from the ‘highest post-box in Malaysia’ which we ensured was sent as we left. Then we dashed.

I am not sure why we dashed but dash we did. Perhaps just having the freedom to get going at our own pace and being able to go down made us feel much better. I felt sooo much brighter after a good night’s sleep and my sickness had abated. We chatted to Terrence as we went, passing couples and groups with their guides, and the porters with their stupendous loads, all coming upwards. Some thought we must be supersonic, so I felt I had to say we had only come down from Pendant Hut, not the summit. But we kept a fast pace, semi-jogging where the path or steep steps allowed. 21/2 hours later we were back at the bottom and signing out. We barely had time to say goodbye to Terrence and were off back down to the entrance where we had a simple early lunch at Restaurant Panataran whilst we awaited our lift back to KK.

Back in KK we had left our main luggage at the hostel. We returned to find it nearly as quiet as when we had left (we had been the only guests, perhaps a sign of the crisis?). Then despite it being my birthday we headed off to the launderette; we didn’t have that many clothes and needed to wash what we had! Luckily the laundry system in Asia is quick and easy and once done we headed out – for a curry. We had found an excellent wee restaurant down by the sea with a good choice of vegetarian dishes prior to our ascent, aptly named ‘Mother India’.

And so ended our three-day mini adventure up Mount Kinabalu.

Travel Tips

The weather is best suited for climbing Mount Kinabalu between March and September. There are strict protocols with regards to weather and ascent, especially for the Via Ferrata routes.

The start of the route is roughly a two hour drive from Kota Kinabalu. There are buses or, if you book with an agent, they often offer to pick you up from your accommodation for an extra fee. Although we did not stay at the start there is a range of accommodation in the vicinity. We stayed at the Lavender Lodge in Kota Kinabalu which was clean, had a small kitchen and could look after luggage; Daniel the owner was very helpful re local things to see/do. There are a number of hostels and hotels in KK to suit all budgets.

If you are using an agent make sure they are reliable and check out their reviews. If doing the via ferrata you can ask Mountain Torq about their preferred agents (we contacted them on their WhatsApp number). Not all travel agents offer the Via Ferrata! The agent we used has a licence which runs out in August (2026) so I have not added them here but as previously mentioned you can check if an agent has an up-to-date licence and is registered on MOTAC

As you have to have a permit and guide as well as be booked into accommodation (and for meals) it is often easier to buy an all in one package but you can buy the different elements separately through Sabah Parks if not doing the Via Ferrata (it seems you have to use an agent if doing the via ferrata).This may depend on how flexible you are with time.

Ensure you have the right kit including good approach shoes and gloves for the Via Ferrata. We both used 'La Sportiva Women's TX4 Evo Approach shoes' and found them to be excellent. We used Azure amara sailing gloves with enforced palms (as slightly cheaper than many dedicated outdoor brands). We used the shoes and gloves for the Mulu Pinnacles too and there's no sign of wear.

And it really does get cold on the summit pre dawn BUT it warms up fast once the sun comes up (assuming you are there on a clear day - it can be damp, cold, windy and cloudy too). Take plenty of thin layers that you can peel off. Waterproofs, hat, gloves and lots of water (the huts provide potable water but a filter or purification tablets are essential anywhere else), snacks and sunscreen are essential. We didn't use our thermals other than to sleep in, but it was good weather. And don't forget your personal First Aid Kit, medication, phone charger, etc. The agents should send you a kit list when you book.